Laying Turf is a relatively simple task requiring some attention to detail and a reasonable amount of hard work. Below lists the basic steps for a professional finish.

Soil Preparation

Having a good quality soil for turf to establish and grow in is extremely important for the health and appearance of your lawn in the long term.  Soil PH should be between 5.5 and 6.5.  This is the range that allows the lawn to take up the available nutrients.  As a general rule, clay soils are greatly improved with the addition of gypsum.  Soil with a low PH (acidic) are improved with the addition of lime.

Remove, sticks, stones and existing grasses.  This can be done manually (depending on the area) or done by the bobcat when the soil is to be spread.

In most cases it is necessary to add soil both to get the levels correct and to provide a higher quality soil for the turf to establish in.  Builders normally leave the site roughly levelled with enough depth to add an average of 5cm of soil across your yard.  The ideal is between 10cm and 15cm, but it is not normally economic to remove the existing soil and replace again with topsoil.  To calculate the amount of soil to purchase, multiply the total area by the depth eg. If you have an area of 100m2 and require 5cm of soil, multiply 100 x .05 = 5m3 of soil.  Ask Wide Bay Turf for a suitable soil supplier near you.

Use a bobcat to level out the area to be turfed and then have the operator spread the soil as appropriate ensuring that the soil is shaped so that the water will drain away from the yard.  Bring the soil up to 25mm below concrete area (this will bring the turf up flush with the concrete).  Most yards will require some hand work once the bobcat operater has finished with a rake or a hand levelling bar.

Apply a “starter fertilizer” eg. Crop King 88, Nitrophoska or Dynamic Lifter at recommended rates.

Laying the Turf

Lay the turf as soon as possible after delivery, preferably the same day or no later than 24 hours after delivery. (turf is a living plant that requires sunlight, ground contact and moisture to survive).

Lay turf along the longest, straightest edge.  This is usually the edge of the house or the roadside.  This will ensure less ‘cutting in’ of turf.  Normally coinciding with this, it is best to run the turf against the slope of the ground.  This results in less ‘tracking’ of water if there is a heavy downpour soon after laying.

Place a border on each end.  It is much easier to ‘cut in’ turf against another piece of turf rather than concrete or a garden edge and results in a much neater finish.

For every second row, cut the starting slab of turf in half and stagger the turf like bricks.  To ensure that there are no gaps, always work off the ‘leading edge’.  eg. Don’t get in front of the row before it.

When laying the turf, ensure that each piece is butted up with the turf above and behind.

Fill up any small gaps with soil.

It is best to start watering newly laid turf as soon as possible.  It is critical that it does not dry out.  If you plan to roll your turf, give a light initial watering and then give a deep soak after rolling.  If not rolling your turf, give it a deep watering after laying.

Water as required in the following weeks according to weather conditions.  If there is no rain, in the peak of Summer turf will require water on a daily basis and in Winter, every two days.  (Please take into account any local council water restrictions).  If in the Maryborough City Council, please ask for a limited water restriction exemption form.