Mowing

As a general rule, the more often you mow, the better your lawn will be.  Irregular mowing often results in a build up of thatch and a scalping effect after mowing.

Start mowing your new turf as soon as the turf has put down roots and will not be torn out by your mower.  This is normally between 2 and 3 weeks after laying.  Set the mower height to one height and mow at this height for each mow.  Please refer to the following table for the appropriate height for your variety.  The height within the range will depend on your preference.

Note: Never mow off more than 1/3 of the grass height.

Watering

A healthy lawn requires good watering methods.  For a hardy, drought tolerant lawn, it is essential to develop the plants root system so that it can tap into the moisture deep into the soil profile.   This is done through deep watering’s less often rather than regular small watering’s.  Small watering’s develop shallow root systems that result in the lawn losing colour quickly and thinning out during dry periods.

Please be aware of any Council water restrictions in place in your area.

Fertilizing

All lawns will require periodic applications of a balanced fertilizer to maintain optimum colour and growth.  Excessive fertilizer will result in growth spurts rather than even growth and often will result in increasing the acidity of the soil, making it difficult for the plant to absorb the available nutrients.

As a rule of thumb, fertilize at the start of each season eg. Summer, Autumn, Winter and Spring.

Use a balanced NPK fertilizer eg. CK88, GF88, Nitrophoska, an organic fertilizer such as Dynamic Lifter or a Lesco or Scotts controlled released fertilizer.   NPK stands for Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium.  Your lawn uses nitrogen for leaf growth, Phosphorous for root growth and Potassium for plant health and hardiness.   Many fertilizer companies also include trace elements such as manganese, magnesium, copper and iron in their fertilizers. 

A handheld or wheeled fertilizer spreader will ensure an even coverage of fertiliser.   Check the label for application rates.

Insect Damage

Lawn grubs, often referred to as armyworm, are the most common cause of insect damage in lawns.  Lawn grubs are the larvae stage of the moth (Spodoptera mauritia) life cycle.  This lifecycle includes egg-larvae-pupae-moth.  The adult female lays its eggs in tree’s, shrubs and on the leaves of your lawn.  The eggs then hatch and drop down through the lawn via a fine silk threat to the ground where they will feed on the soft leaves of your lawn.  They feed only at night and shelter under the grass during the day.  They occur most commonly in January and February when the storms come through and when humidity is at it’s highest, but also can affect your lawn in the months either side of this.

Signs that you may have lawn grubs include:

A simple test to see if you have lawn grubs is to lay a wet hessian bag or a wet towel on your lawn over night.  If you have lawn grubs, they will be sitting on the surface of your lawn in the morning.

Suitable ‘grub killers’ are available from your local nursery or rural store.  If in doubt, contact Wide Bay Turf for advice.